The dealer negotiates forty cars a week. You do it once every six years.
I sit on your side of the desk and do the whole thing: find the car, make the dealers bid against each other in writing, and read the paperwork before you sign. One flat fee of $500, agreed before I start.
- MSRP as configured
- $48,320
- Market adjustment
- $3,500
- Paint & fabric protection
- $1,295
- Nitrogen-filled tires
- $299
- Dealer prep & "doc" padding
- $846
- Price I negotiate to
- $44,180
Illustrative only — every deal is different. The point is that four of those five lines were never the price of the car.
One call, call Paul.
- No dealership affiliation
- No finance or warranty commissions
- $500 flat, agreed before any work starts
Three jobs, all of them the part you hate.
You still choose the car and you still drive it. Everything between those two moments is mine.
Find the actual car
I work from real inventory and inbound allocations within reach of you, not whatever a search filter floats to the top. Same trim, same options, so the numbers you're comparing are comparable.
Make them compete
The same written request with the same deadline goes to every dealer in range, from me. They compete on the out-the-door total, because that's the only figure that means anything. A monthly payment is just a story told about it.
Read the paperwork
Before you sign, the buyer's order gets read line by line and anything that appeared after the number was agreed comes back off. This is the step where the money usually walks back in.
Five hundred dollars, and I handle all of it.
No tiers, no packages, no upsell halfway through. You choose the car and you drive it. Everything between those two moments is mine.
- Agreed in writing before any work starts
- Not a percentage of the price, or of what I save you
- No dealer referral money, finance reserve or warranty commission
- The first fifteen-minute call is free
What the $500 covers
All of it, however long it takes.
- A fifteen-minute call about what you need
- Real inventory and inbound allocations searched
- A shortlist of specific cars, trim by trim
- A defensible target out-the-door price for each
- What your trade-in should genuinely bring
- Every dealer in range contacted in writing, by me
- Competing quotes collected on identical terms
- Trade-in offers gathered separately from the purchase
- Add-ons and padding refused on your behalf
- Lease or finance numbers broken down for you
- The final buyer's order read line by line before you sign
- Delivery or a short pickup arranged
Four steps, and you're only in two of them.
Most searches run one to three weeks. If you need it faster, say so and I'll tell you honestly whether it's possible.
We talk for fifteen minutes
What you drive now, what it has to do, what you want to spend, and whether there's a trade. Free, and there's no pitch at the end of it.
You get a shortlist and a target
Two or three specific cars with a defensible target price for each, plus what the trade should really bring. Nobody gets contacted until you've seen it.
Then I make them bid
The same written request with the same deadline goes to every dealer in range. Quotes come back to me on the out-the-door total, trade offers get gathered separately, and you watch it land. No showroom, no four-square, no "let me ask my manager."
Nothing gets signed unread
I check the final buyer's order against what was agreed before your pen touches it. Then you sign, and that's the first time you deal with the dealership at all.
Questions people ask first.
What does this cost?
$500, flat, for the whole negotiation — the same price for everyone, whether the car is $25,000 or $95,000 and whether it takes me three days or three weeks. It's not a percentage of the price and not a cut of the savings, because either one would give me a reason to want your number to be higher. The first fifteen-minute call is free, and the fee is agreed before I contact a single dealer.
What's not included?
The car itself and the things that aren't mine to negotiate: tax, tag, title and registration, and any state fees. On a used car I'll want an independent inspection, which the shop charges you for directly — usually $100–$250, and it has paid for itself every time it found something.
Do you get paid by the dealership too?
No. No referral money, no finance reserve, no warranty or accessory commissions, no preferred-dealer arrangements. Your fee is the only money I make on your purchase, which is what lets me tell you to walk away from a bad one.
New, used, or lease?
All three. Used takes longer because the right car has to exist, and I'll want an independent inspection before you commit. On a lease I'll show you how the payment is actually built — the selling price, residual, and money factor — so you can see where a "great lease deal" is coming from.
What about my trade-in?
You'll know what it's genuinely worth before anyone makes you an offer on it. I go and get real offers separately from the new-car negotiation, so a dealer can't quietly hand you money on one side and take it back on the other. Sometimes the answer is to sell it privately, and I'll say so if it is.
Do I have to be nearby?
No. The call, the research, and the negotiating all happen by phone and email, so distance doesn't matter. Whether I can hand you the keys in person depends on where you are — ask me.
Can you help if I've already got a quote in hand?
Yes, and it's the fastest version of this. Send me the worksheet and I'll tell you which lines are real and which are padding, then take it to every other dealer in range and make them beat it. Same $500.
Tell me what you're shopping for.
A few details is enough to start. I read every message myself and usually reply the same day. The first call is free and the fee is $500 flat if you decide to go ahead.